A great turning point in the evolution of pocket watches into watches. Among Patek Philippe’s many works, it has an officer’s watch style with a tiltable metal protection back. It not only has always had a loyal customer base, but also Has become one of PatekPhilippe’s unbreakable traditional features. In the past, during the peak period, Patek Philippe had a number of models including Ref. 5022, 5053, 5054, 5059, and 4860, which were generally classified as military watches. Today, these models have been discontinued under the brand watch process, making the only Calatrava Ref. 5153 that continues this classic style more independent and elegant. As in the past it was called
The special style of the ‘Military Officer’s Watch’, the Calatarva 5153 watch has many characteristics that are completely different from other general Calatrava: straight straight lugs at the ends, and screw straps to fix the strap. The special Turban Crown is also a common style for military watches; the ancient round pot-shaped case is an Office-style case exclusive to military officers during the war; of course, the most important one is the Calatarva 5153 military watch. In addition to the sapphire crystal glass back, the case back also has a liftable metal dust back (hinged dustcover), which is a special design inherited from previous military watches to protect the surface.
The Patek Philippe Officer’s Watch Ref. 5153 can be regarded as a masterpiece of extreme splendor, because the production process of the metal backpiece is very challenging. It only takes several days for the watchmaker to polish and adjust the watch.
A great turning point in the evolution from pocket watches to watches
Of course, each Patek Philippe watch has its own unique style and allusions. However, to elaborate on the legend of the Calatarva 5153 officer-style watch, it implies two extremely romantic features that make it more distinctive. Let’s go back in time. Since Peter Henlein, a watchmaker in Nuremberg, Germany in the 16th century, created a prototype of a pocket watch called the ‘Nuremberg Egg’, pocket watches have gradually become popular in Europe until the 20th century. At first, it was still the favorite timepiece and accessories of high society. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, a few watchmakers began to try to make ‘watches’ that could be worn on the wrist. At present, there is no dispute over who made the first watch in the watch industry, but most of the early watches were converted from smaller pocket watches, with linear lugs or holes punched on both sides of the pocket watch. Watches used to fit leather or metal straps that can be worn on the wrist were born.
Calatrava 5153G officer watch, 18K white gold case, 38mm diameter, hour, minute, center seconds, date, 324 SC self-winding movement, 45 hours power reserve, sapphire crystal and back case, military officer Metal back guard and crocodile leather strap.
Earlier pocket watches that were chained with keys and opened with a hinged case bottom case revealed another inner guard. This key is equipped with a key window, so that when the watch owner inserts the key on the chain, he will not accidentally touch the other parts of the movement, which will affect the operation. After the invention of the mechanism of winding the crown, even if there is no need to wind the key again, many high-end pocket watches still retain this protection. On the one hand, it prevents dust and moisture from invading the movement. On the other hand, it can be used as a place for engraving the movement information or the name, quotes or family crest of the watch owner. As for the front of the pocket watch, a metal shield is also needed. Before the sapphire water paid tribute to the battle-fighting military watchmakers, crystal glass was used as the most fragile part of the timepiece. Therefore, both hunting and semi-hunting watches were designed with metal guards to protect them. Mirror. The winding crown of a general topless pocket watch is at twelve o’clock, while the hunting watch is located at nine o’clock because of the guard hinge. The winding crown is placed at three o’clock, which is most suitable for adding a strap. Become a watch and continue to use it today.
Calatrava 5153J officer watch, 18K yellow gold case, 38 mm diameter, hour, minute, center seconds, date, 324 SC self-winding movement, 45 hours power reserve, sapphire crystal glass and back case, military officer Metal back guard and crocodile leather strap.
When the ‘watch’ was first invented, it was mainly popular among women.
‘Watches’ are regarded as a kind of decorative items for women. They are not optimistic that watches can be used in elegant houses and become mainstream timepieces favored by male customers. Later World War I brought catastrophe to mankind, but also inadvertently became the promoter of watch popularity. Frontline officers need accurate timepieces that can be easily read and read to synchronize time and accurately conduct military operations when the commander is under charge. For them wearing heavy uniforms and coats, the watch has the inherent advantage that a pocket watch cannot match. This type of watch changed from a pocket watch is called an ‘military officer’s watch’. It has its origins because the possession of an expensive timepiece was only the right of the upper class and officers at that time. It was not really popular until World War II. . Calatarva 5153 military watch’s unique metal case back design, reminds the history of pocket watches into a watch, but also pays tribute to this great turning point in watchmaking history. To pay tribute to the struggling officer’s watchmaker. Another important significance of Calatarva Ref.5153 officer watch to Patek Philippe must be traced back to the history and come to the youth of Patek Philip’s founder Antoine Norbertde Patek (1811-1877) period. Before the watchmaker fellow Franciszek Czapek founded Patek Philippe’s predecessor, Patek, Czapek & Co. in Switzerland in 1839, he was an army officer. In November 1831, Poland broke out in the national revolution against Russian occupation. He also suffered two gunshot wounds. After Poland’s defeat, he had to flee to France, and later went into exile in Switzerland. Antoine Patek, who made brilliant achievements in watchmaking, was naturalized as a Swiss citizen in 1843, but he continued to struggle for his native Poland throughout his life. In addition to funding the national revolutionary movement in Poland, he believed in Catholicism and was also eager to help other Polish refugees, and was therefore sealed by Earl Pope Benedict IX. The Calatrava Cross emblem, which Patek Philippe has been using since 1857, conveys the origin of Antoine Patek as a heroic officer and a devout Catholic;
CalatravRef. 5153, which is a ‘military officer’s watch’, also shows the heroic origin and achievements of the brand founder.
When Calatrava5153 is worn on the wrist, its unique features are actually hidden. Only the unique turban-type crown and the crown guard extended from the case back are revealed in the eyes of the wise person. One of the most glorious.
Elegant minimalism: Calatarva Ref. 5153 officer watch
Patek Philippe Calatrava 5153, an officer-style three-hand date watch, features all Calatrava watches. The Calatrava model, named after Patek Philippe’s famous Calatrava Cross, has been known as Nothing to Add’s Simplicity since the first Reference 96 was launched in 1932. The most perfect combination of performance and representative models can also best embody the spirit of Patek Philippe. At that time, Henri Stern who thought of Ref. 96 thought that the most important performance of the watch was the display of hours, minutes, and seconds. Therefore, a circle was the best choice. Therefore, he designed a simple circular case such as Calatarva. A new watch with a rustic dial, a flat bezel and long, curved lugs that connect to the case. Looking at the round watch now is not uncommon, even justified. However, in the 1930s, the watch was a young product with a history of only two decades. Watchmakers tried various shapes, such as square, long, barrel-shaped, and even irregular, until they were displayed. The appearance and popularity of the simple and round Calatrava watches have established the mainstream status of round watches and laid the foundation for consumers to recognize Patek Philippe’s brand as equal to refinement, perfection and performance.
Although the case size has been increased to 38 mm, the appearance of the new Calatarva 5153 is as elegant, simple and simple as ever. The center of the milky white or black face plate is meticulously decorated with guilloche radiating patterns. The faceted gold sword-like time scale is accompanied by small gold-plated minute dots. Debut. Even if there is no complicated performance, as one of the classic models with a long history, all Patek Philippe’s military watch styles can be regarded as the ultimate masterpiece, because the production process of the metal back of the watch is very challenging, and it is expensive to polish the case alone. The craftsman took several days of careful polishing and adjustment to complete it. In fact, in order to ensure that the entire circumference of the watch will be tightly wrapped around the watch when it is lifted, the watch case craftsman will use a magnifying glass to check it one by one, and listen carefully to the sound of the ‘card’ sound, and adjust the hinges patiently Even if the error is only a few hundredths of a millimeter, don’t let go of it until each metal guard has a sound that opens and closes correctly, which means that the guard has been properly installed. All these special features are hidden when the Calatrava 5153 is worn on the wrist. Only the unique turban-type crown and the crown bridge extending from the case back are revealed in the eyes of the reader. Out of the peerless style. And only the excellent watch owner can lift the protection lightly, and enjoy the exciting movement of the Cal.324SC automatic winding movement it guards.