Light And Shadow Chords 2016 Geneva Watch Fair Piaget Pavilion List

From January 18th to January 22nd, the 26th Geneva International Haute Horlogerie Salon opened at the Palexpo Exhibition Center. Piaget brought new creations of fine jewelry and high-end watches to Geneva. The design of the pavilion cleverly uses light and shadow to make timepieces naturally become the focus of attention.

   The bright sky and starry sky above the pavilion are just like the endless creativity, excellent craftsmanship and endless masterpieces of the brand.

   Each of the showcases looked down from above, as if the stars on the earth.

   From the center of the exhibition hall, you can overlook the stars. Piaget cleverly applies the mirroring principle to add a layer of dimension to the exhibition hall, making it more bright.

   Showcase windows are set up on the side wall of the exhibition hall, and the brand’s artistic accomplishments and excellent craftsmanship are fully interpreted through timepieces.

   The long river of abstract time sprinkles mysterious brilliance, injects Piaget’s creativity and ingenuity into precious precious timepiece works, so that one fascinating mechanical masterpiece, and the brand’s long and glorious history are plated with magnificent and charming light and shadow.
   The above is the cutting-edge information of the Earl Hall of the 2016 Geneva Watch Fair, which was carefully prepared by the report staff in front of the Watch House. If you want to know more details, please pay attention to the special report of the 2016 Geneva Watch Fair:

Beauty And Treasure Tasting Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Rose Cream Gold Watch

In our impression, rose gold is born with a warm and luxurious style. It is even more so after polishing and polishing. It exudes a more delicate and soft gloss, which makes viewers love it all. On this romantic material. Watches made of rose gold tell their own quality time. At the Geneva Watch Salon 2017, Audemars Piguet, a Swiss watch brand with extreme craftsmanship, launched the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak series rose frost gold watch. It is created with a unique ‘hammer gold’ process, which not only combines the material itself Characteristics, and added a new visual beauty of ‘Frost Gold’, highlighting the eye-catching and beautiful time. (Watch model: 15454OR.GG.1259OR.01)

Unique and beautiful

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak ‘Frost Gold’ Watch

   I have to admit that whether it is rose gold or white gold, under the ancient ‘hammer gold’ process (also known as the Florentine process), the material itself has a new look. Using a diamond-tipped tool on the top to hit the gold surface gives the watch a diamond-like brilliant visual effect. Compared to the original smooth material, this watch is presented after this exquisitely crafted complex process. Its unique texture makes the surface of the watch brighter under the light. The octagonal bezel and the outside of the strap are treated with brushing and polishing, which makes the watch simultaneously have the double beauty of delicate and ‘rough’ gold, and retains softness and flexibility, making the entire watch unique. , Meiruo jewelry.

Highly recognizable watch design
   Whether from the octagonal case or the special bracelet design, it contains Audemars Piguet’s unique watchmaking genes, showing the brand’s exclusive beauty. It is made with an ancient hammer gold process, although it is not set with a diamond, but its bright appearance is not inferior.

The side of the bezel is polished, and the side of the case is brushed.

Three different craft shows
   The 37mm rose-frost gold case, after ‘hammer gold’, polishing and brushing, presents three different watch-seeing feelings, showing the multi-faceted beauty of rose gold in different ways. And the Trinity is meticulously crafted to show the overall ornamentality of the watch, such as the diamond version shining and very beautiful.

Crown display
   The octagonal crown is engraved with the brand’s LOGO ‘AP’, which contrasts with the crown of the round concave design, showing a full and intuitive Audemars Piguet ‘style’.

Glamorous silver dial
   The silver dial in the middle is more attractive against the background of rose frosted gold octagonal case. Decorated with the ‘Grande Tapisserie’ large checkered pattern and the unique Audemars Piguet rose gold hour marker design, the dial is more three-dimensional. The date display window is located at the 3 o’clock position of the watch, and together with the central hour, minute, and second hands form the watch’s display function.

Calibre 3120 self-winding movement
   Through the transparent sapphire glass back cover, the movement can be seen at a glance. It is equipped with Calibre 3120 self-winding self-produced movement and has a power reserve of 60 hours.

Even more dazzling is the rose-frost gold strap
   The 18K rose gold strap is treated with ‘frost gold’, showing a unique sense of elegance. The watch is connected to a folding buckle with the word ‘AP’. Colleagues who are beautiful and generous can well ensure the safety of the watch between the wrist and is very reliable.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Rose Gold Watch
In summary: without any table cloth, the sparkling and luxurious Audemars Piguet Royal Oak series rose frosted gold watch shows elegant and noble charm on the table. The watch has been highly praised by watch lovers since its launch, which shows the charm and influence of this watch. Favorite cousin, may wish to enter the Audemars Piguet store to see its gorgeous posture.

Hamilton Launches New Intra-matic Classic Minimalist Watch

Hamilton launched the Thin-O-Matic watch last year, and now Hamilton has brought us a slim and elegant Intra-Matic watch. Hamilton once again showed us its ability to make classic watches. And this watch will undoubtedly become a classic style in your pocket.
Hamilton’s new Intra-Matic classic minimalist watch
     The 2012 version of Hamilton Intra-Matic is fashionable. The watch case is available in two sizes of 38mm and 42mm. It is available in stainless steel or gold PVD vacuum ion coating with a thickness of only 7mm. 100% designed with beautiful style, delicate eye-like hour markers, simple hour hand, arched crystal mirror. The calendar display is set at six o’clock. The ‘H’ logo is printed on the dial and crown. It’s simple, pure, but practical.
Hamilton’s new Intra-Matic classic minimalist watch
     The watch is equipped with a high-performance Swiss ETA calibre 2892-2 self-winding movement, water-resistant to 50 meters, and a black leather or stainless steel strap.

How Many Watches Do You Know? Count Those Tribute Watches

Anyone who has watched the watch making process or visited the watch factory can’t help but lament how great the craftsmanship of the design and production of the watch is! From the design sketch to the initial prototype, and even the final part grinding to assembly molding, each link condenses human wisdom and the difficult operation of the machine, conceived in a quiet environment, patiently polished parts, and carefully assembled the structure It is the inspiration of the brand that the brand’s watch masters give these parts a life of operation. The founder of the brand has passed down the generations of craftsmanship for hundreds of years or even more, which is admirable! Below, we take the specific salute watches as an example to review the important big names of several brands.

  Since 1833, all employees of Ru Gu Jie Jia Watch Factory have been pursuing the concept of perfection. They adhere to the values ​​that Jaeger-LeCoultre founder Anthony Lecourt values ​​are pure, flawless, exquisite, exquisite and elegant. The HommageAntoineLeCoultre Memorial series is meant to pay tribute to him. When Anthony Lecourt founded his own small watchmaking workshop, he also gave birth to the Jaeger-LeCoultre watchmaking factory that will become internationally renowned in the future. Anthony Lecourt has spent his entire life working tirelessly to make absolutely reliable timepieces. His achievements in the fields of precision and mechanized watchmaking have made Ru Gu a paradise for high-level complications and a mecca for fine production.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Founder: AntoineLeCoultre

 Jaeger-LeCoultre Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon Master Series Commemorative Watch

  In 2013, at the 180th anniversary of the establishment of Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jaeger-LeCoultre launched the MasterGrandeTraditionGyrotourbillon3Jubilee superb traditional tourbillon series commemorative watch. 10 masterpieces. As the core work of three commemorative edition watches ‘in tribute to Mr. Antoine LeCoultre’, this new timepiece combines the superb technology of the Jaeger-LeCoultre watch factory with the elegant decoration bred from the long-established watchmaking craftsmanship. In one, pocket watches made in the 19th century by the watch factory also gave the watch its unique aesthetic concept.
  Jaeger-LeCoultre Classic Tourbillon Master Series Commemorative Watch

  The double tourbillon frame runs precisely, the outer frame rotates around the axis once a minute, the inner frame rotates once every 24 seconds-2.5 revolutions per minute-and this achievement is achieved not only by watch factory engineers and watchmakers Our outstanding creativity also relies on modern cutting-edge equipment like 5-axis automatic production units. Finally, the use of aluminum as an ultra-light material makes the combined mechanism composed of more than a hundred parts less than 1 gram, which is a feat in the field of micromechanics.

  This watch is the tenth masterpiece of HybridMechanica’s large complication series. It is equipped with three independent dials to display the time, which is quite distinctive. Each dial not only reflects the exquisite qualities of the fine watchmaking tradition, but also has its own unique charm. The hour and minute display is decorated with traditional silver-plated pearlescent decoration. The new prince-like hands perfectly match the other elements that make up the timepiece. The traditional rhodium-plated sunburst dial makes the chronograph display more legible and the day / night display is stamped. Limited production of 75 pieces. In the center of the dial is the Jaeger-LeCoultre brand logo and signature, as well as the words 1833. These elements are reminiscent of that distant era. That year, Antoine LeCoultre established his own watchmaking workshop in Ru Valley.


  Roger Dubuis is the only watch factory engraved with the Geneva Seal on all watches, which can be called a rare example and extreme glory in the watchmaking industry. The Geneva mark not only provides excellent guarantee for the movement, but also the entire watch is manufactured in Geneva, as well as strict guarantee of superb craftsmanship, excellent performance, extraordinary quality and durability. Roger Dubuis Roger Dubuis, through one of the avant-garde images, exemplifies the firmness of the brand’s timepieces with one of the Geneva emblems that dominates the sky, bringing you a comprehensive understanding of the most stringent and rigorous certification standards for watchmaking.

Roger Dubuis

  In 2014, Roger Dubuis launched the Hommage series, which has been planned for many years and revived, and pays tribute to the founder and founder of the series, Roger Dubuis. The Hommage series has become the core spirit of the brand. The Hommage series is not only a tribute to fine watchmaking, but also highly praises the founder and the original creator of the series, Mr. Roger Dubuis. Let the Hommage series emit a glamorous dazzling light. Over the past 10 years, Roger Dubuis has defined its own watch aesthetics, and the aesthetic soul of Roger Dubuis comes from the watchmaker Roger Dubuis who founded the brand of the same name.

  The Roger Dubuis double flying tourbillon hand-engraved watch has poured the hard work and passion of watchmaking masters and reached the top level of existing precise timing equipment. The brand not only uses it as a timing tool, but also devotes it to high-end A work of art for watch connoisseurs. The Roger Dubuis double flying tourbillon hand-engraved watch combines classic tradition and modern style. It adopts a 45mm 5N rose gold case. The metallic luster is more noble and elegant under the light. Through the sapphire crystal glass, the unique dial design is clearly displayed in front of us. The radioactive hand-crafted engraved patterns let the sun shine, full of energy and enthusiasm. The rose gold inlaid with Roman numerals and the charcoal gray outer ring make people recall the elegant time.

  The dual flying tourbillon is the finishing touch of this watch and one of the high-end skills of watchmaking. The two tourbillons appear symmetrically at the lower end of the watch and are full of mechanical sense. The front of this watch is stunning with a strong mechanical feel, while the back is more like a finely crafted work of art, which makes people appreciate. The metal engraved with the signature of Mr. Roger Dubuis on the back of the sapphire crystal glass is a special mark belonging to the brand and a feeling of countless watch lovers. As the founder and “soul master” of the watchmaking factory, Mr. Roger Dubuy has continued to play a spiritually inspiring and inspiring role in it, and maintains constant communication with Gregory Bruttin, director of the research and development department, and other team members. The new HommageDoubleFlyingTourbillon hand-guilloche watch is the best example.

  Tag Heuer New Caliber1887 Chronograph Jack Heuer Edition

 Jack Heuer

  ‘The limited edition TAG Heuer CARRERA watch was designed by me personally, in honor of my 80th birthday,’ said Mr. Jack Heuer. The watchmaker’s vision is unique. He has designed TAG Heuer’s most iconic modern watches, especially the most legendary CARRERA series.

  TAGHeuer’s honorary chairman, Jack Heuer, is the grandson of the founder Edward Heuer. He served as the company’s CEO during the company’s golden age of innovation in the 1960s and 1970s. Recently, the brand has launched a special edition chronograph. Inspired by the two parts of the TAGHeuer stopwatch he used on professional circuits around the world. In 2012, to celebrate his 80th birthday, Mr. Jack Heuer created the commemorative Calella Calibre17 Jack Heuer 80th Anniversary Chronograph. The classic 41 mm diameter case of this watch, the clear and wide dial, and the automatic movement driving the small dial at 3 and 9 o’clock, all make people feel retro in a subtle way.

  Today, the limited edition of the Calera Calibre17 flagship store offers two different retro dial designs: one is a large charcoal gray dial with a small silver dial; the other is a large silver dial with a dark blue small dial. In addition, these two watches are the same as the previous models, and they are also decorated with the vintage HEUER family emblem on the dial and on the back of the dial. This chronograph uses leading-edge technical details, with elements borrowed from the F1 racing and aviation fields: black titanium carbide steel case, hand-brushed and polished, with high gloss; polished, fine-brushed and sandblasted steel and titanium frames; deep The gray outer edge is set with speed and pulse scales.

  This innovative asymmetric case design is based on the TAGHeuerCARRERA Mikrogirder chronograph: the crown and the chronograph button are slightly angled at the top. The dark gray sapphire case back is engraved with the Jack Hoya shield and signature, and the Calibre 1887 movement boldly set with 39 gems is visible through the case back. In all respects, elegance praises this technology and design pioneer, for his extraordinary and prescient vision.

Summary: For a brand located in the watchmaking industry, watchmaking is an art. Every detail of a watch is a creative space. Even the fine patterns on the case and dial are determined after careful consideration. The founders of watches and clocks are worthy of respect. They adhere to the ‘maverick’ characteristics in many styles, inject fresh blood into the brand, create their own style, and create miracles for many watch enthusiasts. These Even if the founder cannot be worshipped by everyone, it is at least worthy of our memory and respect. (Picture / text watch home Li Shuai)

Extraordinary Road Tribute To Legend Eason Chan Explores Zenith Watchmaking Factory

On the eve of the 2019 Basel International Jewellery and Watch Fair, the Swiss watchmaker ZENITH Zenith welcomed a time seeker-Chen Yixun, the soul of the Chinese music industry and the global spokesperson for Zenith. At the 50th anniversary of the birth of EL Primero, which is proud of Zenith, Eason Chan left the exhaustion of the journey behind him, accompanied by Mr. Julien Tornare, CEO of Zenith, to visit this legendary watch factory Mysteries about time.

Eason Visit_ZENITH

Zenith Global Spokesperson Eason Chan and Zenith CEO Julien Tornare
Extraordinary history classic legend
  The Zenith watch factory is located in the west of the small town of Leloc, which is the only Swiss watch factory in the world that still stands on its site for nearly a century and a half. Not only that, it also took the lead in breaking the scattered distribution of various workshops, bringing together all watchmaking techniques in the same roof. Set the hour hand back half a century ago, where the EL Primero movement was born. EL Primero means “first” in Spanish, deserving its name: its birth has gone through seven years of exploration and development. It is the first integrated automatic winding column wheel chronograph movement in history. The field of mechanical watches is of extraordinary significance. ‘In 1969, it was possible to reach a tenth of a second accuracy, it was incredible!’ Chen Yixun sighed.

Eason Chan explores the mysteries of time at Zenith Factory
  Speaking of the ups and downs of the EL Primero movement, the ‘legendary loft’ in the watch factory is an inevitable topic. Mr. Julien Tornare said: ‘It can be said that there was a rebirth of Zenith here.’ When the ‘Quartz Crisis’ swept the Swiss watchmaking industry, Zenith was forced to destroy the production tools of mechanical movements such as EL Primero. An ordinary watchmaker named Charles Wilmoer resolutely hides all drawings, parts and tools here. When the storm subsided, he presented the ‘treasure’ hidden here to Zhenli for the first time. Had it not been for the dedication, courage and persistence of this civilian hero, would EL Primero fade out of history and become a pitiful memory?

Eason Chan laments the extraordinary history of EL Primero in ‘Legend Loft’
Extreme precision
  From 1969 to 2019, the EL Primero movement continued to evolve, writing a timepiece legend for Zenith. In 2017, Zenith subverted the traditional concept, with the DEFY EL Primero 21 movement once again breaking the chronological limit, leading the watchmaking industry into the era of one hundredth of a second. At present, Zenith is poised for a challenge to the thousandth of a second for the ultimate in precision and excellence.
  The secret of self-transcendence in this half century is hidden in the rigorous and innovative watchmaking workshop of Zenith. From electric spark machine tools with cutting accuracy of one-thousandth of a millimeter to five-axis machining centers that can directly produce complex micro-parts, various precision instruments in the workshop are in order. After the parts are processed, they must enter the testing laboratory for rigorous inspection. Only parts with perfect workmanship can be assembled.

Eason Chan experiences assembling movement components at a watchmaking table
  Eason Chan learned that Zenith has always insisted on self-produced movements. From the movement design, substrate polishing to parts assembly, a sophisticated EL Primero movement consists of hundreds of parts and requires more than 20 watchmaking It took the craftsman 9 months to complete. Under the guidance of a senior watchmaker, Eason Chan boarded the watchmaking table and personally experienced the assembly process of an EL Primero movement. ‘When I screwed a screw on EL Primero, I felt as if I had entered the wonderful world of this movement.’ Eason Chan said.

Eason Chan is immersed in superb watchmaking skills
Faith, legend
  The short visit was about to end, but Eason Chan was still overwhelmed. The reason why Zenith can create miracles again and again and set a new record in the watchmaking industry is behind countless watchmakers’ day-to-day commitment, amazing patience and superb technology. And this insistence and persistence in precision, inheritance and innovation makes him even more sure that he fits the soul of Zenith. ‘Persist in faith in the things you love, every second must be true. It is a tacit understanding between me and Zeni. In the future, we will also devote ourselves to the pursuit of higher peaks.

Eason Chan at Zenith Factory

Earl Gouverneur Series Debut Fusion Arc Design

Piaget Gouverneur series fuses the two connected shapes of circle and ellipse, which is ingeniously balanced to perfectly present the historical tradition of artistic design. Upon closer inspection, each watch demonstrates the extraordinary skills of Piaget’s fine watchmaking workshops, and is the masterpiece of the father and son, showing the superb skills of two generations of designers. The new Gouverneur collection is the result of Piaget craftsmanship and history and is part of the Black Tie watch collection. The extraordinary horology of this series complements the design. The Gouverneur series includes three mechanical movement models: automatic, chronograph and tourbillon, each in rose gold or white gold with diamonds. This unique new classic collection, created by Piaget’s fine watchmaking workshop, is a joint work of father and son, containing the stories of two generations of designers.
   The case design of the Black Tie series is unique, elegant and unique. Among them, the Emperador, Emperador Coussin, Protocole, and Rectangle a a l’ Ancienne models are now added to the Gouverneur series with leather straps. Each Black Tie watch model is carefully decorated on the case, movement and dial. These ingenious techniques are all made by Piaget. They are not limited to the movement itself, but also include the production of original watch cases. The Black Tie watch series not only shows the mechanical movement of Piaget’s fine watchmaking workshops, but also incorporates new and complicated functions developed by itself every year, teaching each timepiece to be different.
Piaget Gouverneur rose gold automatic watch
Number: G0A37110
Diameter: 43 mm
Case: 18K rose gold
Bottom cover: transparent sapphire glass back cover
Timescale: 18K rose gold
Movement: equipped with Piaget’s self-winding 800P mechanical movement
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date window at 6 o’clock
Vibration frequency: 21,600 times / hour
Kinetic energy: 85 hours (double barrel)
Strap: brown alligator leather strap, 18K rose gold pin buckle

Piaget Gouverneur Automatic Watch with White Gold and Diamonds
Number: G0A37111
Diameter: 43 mm
Case: 18K white gold, set with 128 diamonds (about 1.4 carats total)
Bottom cover: transparent sapphire glass back cover
Time scale: 18K white gold time scale
Movement: equipped with Piaget’s self-winding 800P mechanical movement
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date window at 6 o’clock
Vibration frequency: 21,600 times / hour
Kinetic energy: 85 hours (double barrel)
Strap: black alligator leather strap, 18K white gold pin buckle

Piaget Gouverneur Automatic Stopwatch in Rose Gold
Number: G0A37112
Diameter: 43 mm
Case: 18K rose gold case
Bottom cover: transparent sapphire glass back cover
Time scale: 18K rose gold time scale
Movement: equipped with Piaget’s own 882P ultra-thin flyback self-winding chronograph mechanical movement
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date window at 6 o’clock, sub-dial in second time zone at 9 o’clock, 30 minute counter at 3 o’clock
Vibration frequency: 28,800 times / hour
Kinetic energy: 50 hours (double barrel)
Strap: brown alligator strap, 18K rose gold folding clasp

Piaget Gouverneur Automatic Stopwatch in White Gold and Diamonds
Number: G0A37113
Diameter: 43 mm
Case: 18K white gold, set with 128 diamonds (about 1.4 carats total)
Bottom cover: transparent sapphire glass back cover
Time scale: 18K white gold time scale
Movement: equipped with Piaget’s own 882P ultra-thin flyback self-winding chronograph mechanical movement
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date window at 6 o’clock, sub-dial in second time zone at 9 o’clock, 30 minute counter at 3 o’clock
Vibration frequency: 28,800 times / hour
Kinetic energy: 50 hours (double barrel)
Strap: black alligator leather strap, 18K white gold folding clasp

Piaget Gouverneur Tourbillon Rose Gold
Number: G0A37114
Diameter: 43mm
Case: 18K rose gold
Timescale: 18K rose gold
Movement: equipped with Piaget’s own 642P ultra-thin manual winding moon phase tourbillon mechanical movement
Functions: Hours and minutes, second hand at 12 o’clock (Tourbillon), astronomical moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock
Vibration frequency: 21,600 times / hour
Kinetic energy: 40 hours
Strap: brown alligator strap, 18K rose gold triple folding clasp

Piaget Gouverneur Tourbillon Watch in White Gold and Diamonds
Number: G0A37115
Diameter: 43mm
Case: 18K white gold
Time scale: 18K white gold time scale
Movement: equipped with Piaget’s own 642P ultra-thin manual winding moon phase tourbillon mechanical movement
Functions: Hours and minutes, seconds at 12 o’clock (Tourbillon), astronomical moon phase indicator at 6 o’clock
Vibration frequency: 21,600 times / hour
Kinetic energy: 40 hours
Strap: black alligator leather strap, 18K white gold triple folding clasp

Those ‘smart Watches’ That Appeared 30 Years Ago

As early as Pebble started financing on Kickstarter, a crowdfunding platform, before the concept of the so-called iWatch even appeared in people’s minds, the ‘Casio Calculator Watch’ launched by Casio was already a very modern Sense of watch products. Let’s take a look at the ‘smart watch’ that appeared 30 years ago.

 Pulsar calculator watch

 In fact, when Casio launched calculator watches that year, similar products from other manufacturers had already been on the market five years ago. However, the debate over which calculator watch product is a pioneer in this field has never been finalized. Some people believe that the Calcron LED wrist calculator, which was advertised in Playboy magazine as early as 1975, is the earliest calculator watch product. However, some people believe that the Pulsar calculator watch (formerly Hamilton Watch Company) is the earliest player in this field.

 HP HP-01 Calculator Watch

 In 1977, HP also entered the watch market and launched its own LED calculator watch ‘HP-01’ that year. At that time, the HP-01 was available in five models for a total of $ 650-850. It is reported that HP-01 is much smarter than other ordinary pocket calculators and can complete more than 30 kinds of computing tasks.

 Casio C-80

 Although Casio wasn’t one of the first companies to enter the industry, the company offers consumers great shopping options. At that time, the first calculator watch launched by Casio was called ‘C-80’. This model had relatively large buttons, so users could click the buttons without the need for an additional stylus. What’s more exciting is that this product sells for only $ 50.

 Casio CA-53W

 Finally, let me return to the topic of the Casio CA-53W I just bought this time. Since I bought the Casio CA-53W at the ‘tax season’ (tax season), the United States enters the annual ‘tax season’ once the new year passes. Up to the president of the United States and ordinary people must complete the tax declaration, otherwise Is illegal), so I use this watch not so often.

Do You Know The Major Misunderstandings Of Watch Maintenance? Moderator Personal Test Tell You

The forum has not had a comprehensive, correct and detailed maintenance post. I often see only a few pictures of the movement, there is no maintenance explanation of the text. It knows nothing about the technology, equipment, oil products, operating procedures, testing methods, and venues behind it. There are also some misleading views of table friends over maintenance, consumption. As a moderator, I am deeply worried.
    In this regard, after the Spring Festival, I had an idea. I took a watch that I should maintain and entrusted my friend Mr. Guo Ming to do a maintenance. The whole process was filmed and accompanied by textual explanations. Some wrong maintenance ideas were corrected and written. An article published here. The purpose is to let more watch friends understand the knowledge behind the watch, use it more reasonably, and maintain their love watch. At the same time avoid unnecessary losses.
    Lao Guo was preparing his work for the Basel watch exhibition at that time. There was a lot of work to do, and he had to participate in the defense of the Swiss Association of Independent Watchmakers, so we agreed to do this work after returning to China. Later, the watch friends all knew that Lao Guo successfully became an alternate member of the Independent Watchmakers Association, and his work was also affirmed and encouraged by many masters.
    This time I took out an old IWC Portofino watch, which I bought at the Beijing IWC flagship store in January 2010. It has been more than seven years since then and has been magnetized once. During this period, she was more careful and did not perform maintenance. Due to the large number of watches, the real time for this watch is more than 3 years, and the rest of the time lies in the watch box, hand-winding once a month, walking.

When receiving the watch, Lao Guo was taking a class. As a serious and responsible watch teacher, the daily teaching tasks were still arduous and hard. Preparation of lessons, lesson plans, teaching research, lectures, daily assignments, examinations, scoring, practical operations, etc. I know this very well. In addition, as an independent watchmaker, Lao Guo also needs to complete a series of research and development and watchmaking work. He has not had time to maintain and maintain this watch, and only recently took time out.

This time I sent two watches, IWC and Seagull timing. Due to working hours, only the maintenance process of IWC is described here.
The straps of the two watches are not the original ones. I changed the crocodile leather strap and pin buckle of Beijing Watch Factory, which is more comfortable. The seagull watch’s folding buckle leather strap is really uncomfortable. Change to another strap.

The following is the maintenance process, which is operated and explained by Mr. Guo himself

First of all, I checked the appearance details of the watch. I usually wear the watch more carefully. The case and back cover have a small amount of normal use marks, and there are dust and dirt between the lugs. Teacher Guo checked very carefully.

In fact, the hand time is three or four years, and there is no problem, just a comprehensive maintenance is enough, so after demagnetization, test the various data on the school meter and register it. Then open the back cover to continue the inspection and found a small amount of dirt and rust.

Next, remove the ETA2892-A2 movement from the case, and perform a comprehensive disassembly procedure of the movement parts. The dial and hands are placed in a separately closed dial base and a dust-proof glass cover to avoid external dust interference.

While disassembling all the movement parts, complete a careful inspection of each part to see if there are rusted and worn parts. If necessary, this process must be carefully checked with the help of a microscope. At the same time, this process requires patience and takes a long time, which is often easy to overlook.
   It should also be pointed out that the clockwork box of modern brand watches (except antique clocks), if there is no water rust, wear, etc. or the clockwork exceeds the service life, the clockwork in the clockwork box usually does not need to be taken out for cleaning . Many brands of watches are not allowed to disassemble and clean the mainspring. If there is a problem with the mainspring, replace the mainspring or the entire mainspring box directly.
   It was found that many maintenance personnel in the forum removed the clockwork for cleaning. I hope to draw attention to the fact that no problem with the washing of the mainspring will increase the power output. The multiple washing and installation of the mainspring will only damage the stability of the power output, which is why many brands do not allow the mainspring to be washed. This issue can be written separately in detail later.

Checking movement parts with a microscope

Next, the shell part was processed first, and since I wanted to keep traces of use, there was no sanding.

Therefore, using a high-temperature and high-pressure steam cleaning machine to clean the casing, some greasy or rusty parts can also be pre-washed at high temperature to soften greasy dirt. Then put the shell part into the ultrasonic wave for further cleaning, and finally dry it on the dryer.

Next, it is time to clean the various parts of the movement. First, the first pre-washing is performed by manual cleaning, and then the various parts of the movement are loaded into a synthetic plastic basket. The Acs900 full-automatic ultrasonic cleaning machine is used for cleaning again.

At present, high-end top brands usually use ACS900 full-automatic cleaning machines. It should be noted that the cleaning baskets for the movement parts are generally made of metal. In order to minimize the friction between metal cleaning baskets and parts, Teacher Guo uses expensive but softer materials. Synthetic plastic cleaning basket.

Metal basket and synthetic plastic basket

Put each part into the cleaning basket one by one according to a certain specification, then put it into a professional ultrasonic cleaning machine, and clean and dry according to the set program.

After cleaning and drying, remove all cleaned parts, place them in a space with a dust cover, and start installing all the parts. During the installation process, the uninstalled parts must be stored in the dust cover to avoid dust. Dirt enters.

During the installation of the movement, all prescribed procedures such as refueling, adjustment, and testing must be performed. It should be noted that the installation sequence and refueling must be done in accordance with the requirements of the watch brand manufacturer.
   For example, come on, the main system components of the movement must use different watch oils. There are nearly hundreds of oils on clocks, and dozens of them are commonly used. They must be stored at a certain temperature to prevent oil deterioration. . More important is how to use these oils properly. Different brands of movements use different oils, so this is one of the reasons why maintenance personnel need brand maintenance training. Different brands of movements have different maintenance and maintenance practices. Some commonly used watch oils must be stored at a certain temperature.

Teacher Guo will perform some non-proliferation and special lubrication treatments on some movement parts. These operations do not seem to be conspicuous. There is no difference between the same movement and whether it is not made for a short time. After using it for several years, Only then can you discover the advantages of these measures. We will discuss this issue in detail next time.

Complete the procedures for assembly, adjustment, refueling, and inspection of the movement, and start to install dials, pointers, and other appearance parts. It is best to use the matching needle loading core seat and installation tools to assemble these appearance parts. Then install the shell that has been cleaned and dried. These steps need to be done well. A careful and meticulous attitude is the only correct way.

The next step is to detect various data of the watch as a whole, including various data such as the 5-direction swing, polarization, and day difference of the watches T0 and T24. T0 means the clockwork is full, T24 means that after the clockwork has been run for 24 hours, it is necessary to check the various data of each clockwork time period such as T48 for long-powered watches. . The 5 orientations are CH, FH, 6H, 9H, 3H. Some brand movements require 6 or more orientation inspections.

Because there are too many pictures, only three orientations of the data in the case of full bars are selected to explain. Face and face, head down, the swings are: 299, 293, and 271. The 0.0 day difference is: fast 3 seconds, fast 3 seconds, fast 1 second, and then after 24 hours, test the data in different directions again, and compare the detection results between the two to meet the brand data requirements. You can proceed to the next step.

There are two misconceptions to highlight here:

First: Many watch friends still use the daily difference as the sole measure of the quality of the mechanical watch. The daily error is not comfortable for a few seconds, and it is best to have zero error. This kind of viewpoint mentality is not allowed. Senior cousins ​​pay more attention to the stability of the data, such as swing, polarization, and finally the day difference. The daily error of 1 second and the daily error of 10 seconds are not a problem. The important thing is stability.

Second: For example, this IWC, many watch friends also think that when the clockwork is full, the date difference is closer to 0 seconds with a calibration meter, the better, then it is wrong. The structure of the card degree, usually the speed of the day difference will slow down with the decrease of the swing (of course, there will be a situation that the speed will increase with the decrease of the swing, of which we will write another article to discuss). You cannot ensure that the watch is always in a high swing condition 24 hours a day, you must adjust the day difference by a few seconds when the swing is high, to deal with the situation that the watch’s day difference becomes slower when the swing decreases. Therefore, brands that typically use movements such as ETA will require maintenance personnel to adjust the time difference by a few seconds to tens of seconds under high swing conditions. So based on the day difference display of the following 3 pictures, I will adjust it a few seconds faster.

Through the above steps of operation detection, it has fully met the brand’s requirements for various data. Next, there is a deeper detection, which is the detection of automatic winding efficiency.

Some watch friends often reflect that their watches are worn normally during the day, go home and rest at night to remove the watch, wake up the next morning and find that the watch has stopped, which is a typical problem of low automatic winding or automatic winding failure. How can I be sure that the watch is normally qualified after automatic maintenance? Then you need the following automatic winding meter to play.

As for how to test the efficiency of watch winding with this automatic winding-to-table instrument, each brand has its own data requirements. Let’s sell it for the time being. If you have time in the future, write a special article to discuss this topic. In addition, this instrument has a function that can actually simulate the rotation of a human hand to measure the time difference of the watch in the active state, while the watch calibration instrument only detects the time difference of the watch in the static state.

Next, you need to test the waterproof performance of the watch. Before the watch back cover was installed, the waterproof ring has been replaced. Therefore, after the screwed back cover is put into the high-pressure watch waterproof tester to test the waterproof performance of the watch. 3 bar, which is 30 meters of basic life waterproof, but after 5 bar test, still passed the test. If it is not waterproof, you must use a true water tester to perform the test.

Finally, all the procedures are completed and registered. The time has passed 2 weeks from the time the watch was received to the time it was delivered. This time is not fast or slow, and is a suitable cycle. Take photos before leaving for packing. This is the maintenance process of the basic movement. If you encounter a complex movement, more testing steps are required.

The above is the entire maintenance process, rigorous and meticulous, professional and detailed. After Mr. Guo’s explanation, I learned a lot and opened my eyes. Thank you very much Teacher Guo!

This may be the first informative and authentic watch maintenance article. What we see is not only Mr. Guo’s exquisite skills, serious and responsible attitude and strong technical strength, but also a heart of love for watches and an unselfish heart.

After reading the complete maintenance process of this watch, I don’t know how many masters can take a watch so seriously.
There are quite a few things in the society that are just right, intentionally shortening the maintenance cycle, non-proliferation is useless. Once washed in the oil, no qualified, no equipment, no craftsmanship, I hope my tablemates can make a correct judgment through this post. And understand.

thanks for watching

Guo Ming Old Noodle May 21, 2017 in Shanghai, Beijing.

Citizen Eco-drive Diving Watch A Great Companion For Diving Lovers

For diving enthusiasts, diving watches are one of the essential equipment when swimming in the sea. In 2009, Citizen launched two new light kinetic diving watches BJ2110-01E and BJ2120-07E, which perfectly interpreted Citizen’s product development concept of ‘fusion of technology and beauty’ with excellent water resistance, rich functionality and humane details

Citizen’s new light kinetic energy diving watch, BJ2120-07E

Citizen’s new solar-powered dive watch, BJ2110-01E
The professional characteristics of the Citizen Eco-Drive dive watch are reflected in its functional innovation and comprehensiveness. Both BJ2110-01E and BJ2120-07E watches use Citizen’s unique light kinetic energy technology, which absorbs any visible light source and converts it into kinetic energy to drive the watch to run. As long as there is light, there is energy. The Citizen Eco-Drive dive watch can automatically switch from the daily timing state to the diving state immediately after entering the water, and has a water resistance of 200 meters. The 50-minute timer, diving depth display, calendar display, 24-hour display and other functions are also available. Everything. During the diving process, diving time and diving depth are very important safety measurement data. The Citizen Eco-Drive dive watch can automatically measure and record water depth and diving time through advanced sensors. It has a water depth display, a 50-minute timer, Features such as 50m water depth display are for the sake of diving safety. The depth and depth memory function of the two watches not only provides data references for multiple dives, but also serves as a record for divers to share the most authentic diving experience with their companions.
Excellent function is the best interpretation of perfection, and the stylish appearance and comfortable wearing experience will perfect the sublimation. The essence of the design of the Citizen Eco-Drive dive watch is reflected in its visual calmness. The large-diameter dial design ensures maximum visibility. The color of the dial is also carefully selected: in the pure black dial, key parts such as hands, water depth and bezel scale are dotted with blue, like blue water. Leaning in front of me. In addition, the hands and dial of the watch are equipped with a luminous function to provide the wearer with the clearest time display at all times. The straps of the two watches are made of high-quality rubber, which not only has good ductility and soft touch, but also makes the watch more personalized. The case is made of stainless steel and processed by Citizen’s unique DLC technology. At the same time, it increases the wearing comfort, is more lightweight and wear-resistant, and is less prone to scratches. The need for convenience and ease of use when operating underwater.

Audemars Piguet And Ic-agency Win In Paris

Audemars Piguet Audemars Piguet got their due in Paris, during the ‘Grand Prix Stratégies du luxe 2010’ with its ‘Royal Oak Offshore Grand Prix’ The watch and its partner, IC-Agency, a Swiss company specializing in digital marketing of luxury goods, have won digital marketing awards.

   Founded in 2005, Grand Prix Stratégies du Luxe has been designed for five years to reward those French and international brands for their greatest contribution to the relevance, creativity and integration of their corporate strategy.

   Audemars Piguet loves each other to win the Grand Prix for their limited edition watch ‘Royal Oak Offshore Grand Prix’ launched in March 2010 with IC-Agency for the Formula 1 Bahrain Grand Prix Watch global business activities in the social media of luxury goods and online advertising.
   This was a very successful business event. The entire series was sold at the end of the event and it was a successful online operation. In six weeks, more than 250 million times reached the target audience. With the addition of more than 26,000 Facebook fans to further accelerate the process of dissemination, the brand’s awareness of search engines and controlling purchase costs has been enhanced. This international multi-platform event is supported by IC-Agency The management operation makes good use of the advantages of digital opportunities to meet the wishes of Audemars Piguet.

   David Sadigh, president of IC-Agency, commented: ‘Audemars Piguet is a very high-end, iconic indicator brand, especially active in the digital marketing field. I am 100% for us We are proud of our partnership, and we work together in Le Brassus and Geneva. This award is the best return to Audemars Piguet. ‘

   The 2010 ‘Grand Prix Stratégies du luxe’ award was won by Hermès. They are committed to let more people participate in the website of ‘Voyage d’ Hermès Hermes Tour’ perfume.